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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.